To the Lake Road and Back Again

A Particularly Spectacular Portion of the Adirondack High Peaks

Story and photos by Brandon Marshall

"Islands in the sky."

This popular quote from past president of the Adirondack Forty-Sixers Dr. Edwin Ketchledge, essentially entails the feeling of serenity atop these mammoths of rock and earth.  In some cases one can adventure deep into the heart of the Adirondacks, tens of miles from the road to be fully immersed in nature's purest form. 

The Adirondack Park is home to some 2,000 mountains with over 30,000 miles of brooks, streams, and rivers connected to 2,300 lakes and ponds.  It is a haven for naturalists and outdoor enthusiasts alike, exceeding 10 million visitors annually.

"there's no setting up camp above 3,500 feet, so for this trip I'd plan on hiking west where the trail splits between Sawteeth and Gothics"

The truth is people were not always as fond of the Adirondacks as we are today.  From the earliest days of American history to a little over 150 years ago the mountains were completely disregarded.  The Dutch in Albany thought that unicorns were running wild in the wide lands.  Indians called it Couxsachrage which means the "dismal wilderness."  During that time westward expansion proved to delay any human activity in the mountains. 

Over 40 years after the discovery of Mount Hood in Oregon, an explorer saw a "shining peak in the distance" and formed a group to climb it in 1837.  The mountain, which turned out to be highest of the 46ers, was named in honor of William Learned Marcy.

To the asthetic viewer, the Adirondack High Peaks is a vast canvas filled with colors and endless bounds.  The sweet song of the surroundings plays a melodic tune in a wave of miles of valleys, mountains and thousands of other natural wonders.  The strength and solidity of the mountains is ever-present at the peak, where the high winds combined with brutal cold throughout most of the year creates a booming force of wind that can be heard rolling along the tips of the peaks.  It is a place for idea and wonder.  A land of energy and life. 

A most interesting stretch in this expansive wilderness involves an approximately 15 mile journey through some of the toughest and most visually stunning portions of the High Peaks, including Sawteeth and part of the Great Range.  This expedition begins with registration the AMR Gatehouse at the Ausable Mountain Club, in St. Hubert’s.  After parking at in the lot off Route 73, the hike to the gatehouse is about .3 miles on a paved road that divided the beautiful Ausable Club Golf Course.

Gatehouse Correspondent Bob Chatt reminds that when hiking and camping overnight around the High Peaks, it is now the law for hikers to have a "bear canister."  Chatt explains "there's no setting up camp above 3,500 feet, so for this trip I'd plan on hiking west where the trail splits between Sawteeth and Gothics." 

For the first four miles of the journey a well-groomed dirt road labeled the Lake Road provides some comfortable trekking before the real adventure begins.  Make sure to choose a side of the road whilst you hike towards Lower-Ausable Lake due to the large, dark green members-only bus that transports Ausable Club members to and from the lake.  The bus does not stop for hikers, so when the green monster comes a rattling round the corner it's best to step as far to either side as possible.

Once at the lower lake, the trail to Rainbow Falls is a short distance after crossing a narrow wooden bridge.  The following .3 miles could be know as the Ausable’s Grand Canyon, with giant rock walls towering above on either side of the trail.  The mind's starvation to look up and all around is undeniable.  The high, flat cliffs suggest that what is now a trail and gentle stream, was once the home of an enormous glacier. From the hawks eye, a human must seem as as small as a tiny sphere in a labyrinth of rock and water.  At the height of the cliffs,  the trees and vegetation on either side seem to stretch out to each other and in many instances connect, forming a tunnel-like canopy leading to the falls.

The pounding rush of water colliding against rock can be heard from afar, yet the sight is still a surprise.  Turning left around the final corner any person is greeted with a sensation of awe.  A hundred or so feet ahead pours Rainbow Falls from 150 feet in the sky.  It is well known as one of the most extraordinary waterfalls on the Ausable's East Branch's Tributaries.  From this distance the scene appears to be trillions of cotton threads flowing rapidly down the cliffs, merging with  the water below and dissipating into mist. 

After an enjoyable beginning to a hardy journey, following the trail back to the lake is the next step.  Just before the dam, a right onto the "Gothics-Pyramid trail" begins the ascent to the top of Sawteeth, which can be tricky and is fairly difficult.  The time needed for rest and drink along this trail may arise quite often, and a  long 2.2 miles from the lower lake is the summit.

The name “Resagone” meaning “the king’s great saw” in Itailian, was the first name given to this High Peak by  Reverend Erastus Hopkins around 1860.  In the Adirondacks, during the course of the next 65 years, the name “Resagone” was forgotten and in the tradition of using Indian names in the region, “Resagonia” took it’s place.

The first recorded ascent of Sawteeth was by Yale graduate Newell Martin in 1875.  Though he thought others may have been there before, Keene Valley Guides have no knowledge of any prior attempts.   At 4,100 vertical feet, this peak ranks 35th among the High Peaks.  Depending on which trail is taken, one can enjoy the long and easy journey of the “scenic trail” or venture up the “Pyramid-Gothics Trail” for a formidable challenge. 

"the best part of the hike is sitting on the rock shelves along the cliff face and looking down on lower Ausable Lake.  The sheer cliffs of Colvin are directly across from you and you seem suspended in the air"

At the peak, the western scene during sunset is a truly mesmerizing experience.  The glow behind Basin and Saddleback spreads to the slides of Gothics in a magnificent display of color and light.  All things seem to adopt an extra hue of magenta and yellow as the sun’s rays fade gracefully to dusk.

Professor of Environmental Science at PSU and 46er Mary Roden-Tice thinks, "the best part of the hike is sitting on the rock shelves along the cliff face and looking down on lower Ausable Lake.  The sheer cliffs of Colvin are directly across from you and you seem suspended in the air." She recalls  "once while resting there, a jet screamed through the valley and was gone.  It appeared to be only a few feet above the mountains and was a brief reminder of the modern world."

If this could be an overnight hike, follow Bob Chatt’s advice.  At the junction of Sawteeth (left) and Pyramid-Gothics (right) hiking west for about 150 feet makes for a good campsite.  It's best not to eat around camp, as black bear sightings are normal in the region.  At this exact spot Pyramid and Gothics rise up to the right, with Basin and Saddleback straight ahead.  It is a wonder to fall asleep gazing across the vast space that these titanic guardians keep watch over every night. 

In the morning, the brightness of the sun bounces off the Pyramid-Gothics slides, almost as if the blinds have immediately been opened after a night of heavy sleep.  After waking in the High Peaks in but a sleeping bag and underneath only a tarp (the best way to camp), it is nearly impossible to fall back to sleep.  The best cure for this is a thick winter hat, one that can be pulled down over the eyes and that blocks the pale, bright light of morning at 3,400 feet.

Now for the most difficult section of the hike, the ascent to Pyramid and then through a short gap to Gothics.  A sight many consider to be the best in the Adirondacks comes from the top of Pyramid, one of the three Gothics peaks.  The climb up Pyramid is quite the hassle and according to Chatt “in many places your nose will be just about touching the rocks.”

After the steep haul to the summit of Pyramid, it’s hard to say where to look.  To the south stretches the long blue Lower and Upper Ausable Lake.  Straight ahead are Basin, Saddleback, and a smooth and rocky shoulder of Gothics to the right.  Far in the background Marcy stands tall at 5, 344 feet, overlooking all of it’s brothers and sisters in a deep saturation of blue and green.

The quickest part of the entire trip, is the notch between Pyramids and the summit of Gothics which looks daunting, but after less than half an hour of hiking the pain is over.  At the top of Gothics one may walk to and fro while gazing at the roughly 30 major peaks.  

Gothics rises 4,736 feet from it’s base and in most cases hikers would claim this to be the number one spot in the Adirondacks.  It’s one of the few peaks that one can actually walk all over to view every possible surrounding element the region has to offer.  The arched peaks and long rock slides suggested no better name and it wasn’t until later that Pyramid was named for it’s unique shape and structure.

"the wildest and most rugged of the Adirondacks"

On October 11, 1875 Verplanck Colvin, Roderick L. McKenzie, Ed Phelps and two guides made the first recorded ascent.  According to Colvin, who surveyed many of the High Peaks in their prime, Gothics is “the wildest and most rugged of the Adirondacks.”  The trail from St. Hubert’s was first laid out around nine years later by Thomas P. Wickes who happened to be a New York lawyer and a mountaineering enthusiast.  The map today is quite different, with trails coming from all directions in what once was a pristine wilderness.

Eight of the 10 highest Adirondack peaks can be see from the summit including Marcy, Algonquin, Haystack, Skylight, Whiteface, Dix, Iroquois, and Basin.  One can actually look down from the east side to see the dam where the ascent into the mountains earlier began.  Whilst pondering the distance between here and there, the deep gratification for trail maintenance becomes overwhelming. 

The next descent north towards Armstrong is an easy-going section of the hike, well deserved after the burning slopes of Pyramid and Gothics.  A little over a hundred feet up the Armstrong trail is the peaks' densely wooded southern summit.  After another short descent the trail rises another 100 feet to the main summit.  Armstrong ranks 22nd among the 46ers and stands slightly shorter than Gothics at 4,400 feet.

Two prominent lumbermen of Plattsburgh in 1866, Almon Thomas and Thomas Armstrong, acquired a tract containing 28, 000 acres of land that included Sawteeth, Gothics and Armstrong.  Shortly afterwards in 1887, the two sold the property to the Adirondack Mountain Reserve.  Evidently the name Armstrong came up one day in 1869 when Thomas looked over his property, gave a laugh and said “I am going to name that mountain over there ‘Armstrong.’”  The earliest known ascent was in 1875 by Ed Phelps and Thomas P. Wickes. 

The western view from the summit is outstanding, with Gothics closely towering to the left and the massive natural architecture of Haystack, Saddleback and Basin extending in the distance.  A large sitting rock allows for a rest with legs dangling towards the cliffs below. 

Aspiring 46er and PSU Accountant Clark Foster explains that recently, during a hike, he and members of his party "hiked Gothics, Armstrong, Upper and Lower Wolfjaw--one long day." He explains, "first we'd thought we heard a bear, then a friend lost a contact lens, by the end of the hike I was thankful to be done."

Back at the junction, left leads down the Beaver Meadow Trail.  For nearly the next three miles the unstable rocks,  twisting roots and several straight drops from giant boulders may create some soreness in the legs.  After a long and careful descent over rocks and roots and ladders, the sight at the end of this trip is a reminder of it's worthiness. 

A small stream flows between Armstrong and Upper Wolfjaw that will be heard during the descent quite often and at two points some small tributaries cross through the trail. At the end of this brook outpours Beaver Meadow Falls at 60 feet.  Unlike the height and straight running downpour of Rainbow Falls, this falls is best described as a “bridal veil” with cascades of water splashing into and over the jutting rocks.  Beaver Meadow Falls is around a mile from the Lake Road and about three miles from the AMR Gatehouse.  This journey has been lived countless times for over 150 years and those who’ve taken the challenge will surely do so again.  Chatt explains that this "is a smart hike, "the whole point being to enjoy yourselves."  In many aspects though, it is a test of will and endurance, combined with awe-inspiring scenery that will stay in memory forever. 

Are you related to any of the early explorers mentioned?