Super Mario's

The finest Italian cuisine in the North Country

Story and photos by Josh Schermerhorn

I’ve always wanted to take a tour of Italy.  Though sights like the Coliseum in Rome or the beautiful canals of Venice are such attractive and historical icons of the country, the unique cuisine is what draws me to this place the most.  Well, I never thought I’d get this tour in New York.

Located at the northern end of the Lake George village, Mario’s screamed “Italy” to me while I entered the restaurant.  My family suggested that this was the best Italian food in the area, so I was a willing diner to say the least. 

Upon entering the establishment, my eyes began to wander at the stylish but not-too-overwhelming characteristics inside.  The red, white, and green flowing throughout made me feel as though I just got off the plane in Rome.  Before waiting 30 seconds, my party was ushered to our window-side table, ripe with views of the village and the spring sun basking the surrounding mountains.

As we were seated by our waitress, I glanced around the spacious room and noticed the classy, old-time feel that should come with a restaurant entering its fifty-fifth year of service.  The bar, gently lit with surrounding and overhanging lights, was empty, maybe waiting for the dinner hour and Humphrey Bogart to stop by for a drink.  At the opposite end of the dining area sat a wine rack stocked with bottles that I could only hope included Stella Pinot Grigio, my favorite.

I didn’t come to Mario’s for the wine; I came for the entrée.  The menu, to my surprise, was sleeveless inside and void of a large selection.  The inner content contained varieties of pasta and meat dishes ranging anywhere from $15 to $25.  I decided on “veal parmigiana,” as written in the menu, seeing that it would be unique from a home-cooked dish.  The back of the menu answered my questions of the wine rack; an entire page was devoted to it.  And yes, there was Pinot Grigio, but water would suffice.

After filling the wait time with a scrumptious bowl of pasta fagioli, our meals were promptly brought out, all coated with the most appetizing looking sauces.  My veal was an enormous portion and came with a side of pasta, all draped in a rich marinara.  I began to take my knife to cut the meat, but my father cut me short, informing me that his veal could cut with a fork. The flavor was as crisp as the cut, lingering pleasantly in my mouth until I quickly took another bite. 

Across from me was a plate of veal marsala, a wine-rich, mushroom-filled sauce drenching the meat.  I was never a fan of mushrooms, but the unique flavor actually brought my distaste for it to a tolerable level.  To my right was a gigantic bowl of spaghetti and sauce, similar to the side I had on my plate, but on a larger scale.  I knew it would not be a disappointment; spaghetti is hard to mess up.  It actually was an above-average dish for being an average order.

Amidst constant re-fillings of fresh water and hot rolls, my veal did not diminish much, even though I had been constantly eating for 20 minutes.  I finally gave up, asking for two boxes to bring my meal home.  The rest of my party also conceded to Mario’s, but it was worth the leftovers.    

We passed on dessert, though an ice cream covered in Di Saronno sounded delightful.  As I walked down the red steps toward the parking lot, I could only feel satisfaction for the experience.  It was the tour of Italy’s cuisine that I’ve always desired.

What's the best Italian dish you've ever had?

Top of Page